Slight delay in fulfilling orders. July 12, 2018 06:40

There will be a slight delay in fulfilling orders this weekend as Charlie Foxtrot Models will be attending "Bossfest" a four day wargaming event under canvas. The gaming event clashes with the Battlegroup South show at the Tank Museum so I will be gaming for 2 days and trading for two days. Each evening, it will be back to the Bossfest campsite to roll more dice. Let the hobby overdose begin.


New Release: "Terrain Bases Set 1 and 2" June 26, 2018 08:10

I have been drawn into two new projects and as usual, need more terrain! I designed these for the scratchbuilder to make hills, rough ground, rocky outcrops etc. The large piece may also be used to base a building. Watch my Facebook page as I post my progress. "Terrain Bases Set 1 and 2" multi scale, multi period, generic scatter now instore. 28mm Hezter by Warlord Games 15mm Opal Blitz by Forged in Battle for scale purposes.

News: Claymore 2018 May 25, 2018 09:08

Charlie Foxtrot Models will be trading at the Claymore show on 4th August 2018

Really happy that we can attend this show..and walk a bit of Hadrians wall while we are nearby. Looking forward to taking a long road trip from Cornwall. A few new releases are in the pipeline before this space or follow me on Facebook or @CFoxtrotModels on Twitter.


New Releases: 28mm 1:56 "Wagon Shed" & "Wheels" May 22, 2018 10:31

I really enjoyed designing and painting this kit, following my own painting guide tutorial. The optional side panels give the modeller in you something to add "flavour" to. To start you off, the ladder and 3 wheels in various states of repair are included in the kit. 

This model can be placed on AWI / ACW or rural Eastern Front settings.

As the wheels came out so well, I have packaged them up for use as basing material, battlefield scatter or scratchbuilding. Being happy with the first wheel set, I went even more rustic and produced solid wheels too.


Holiday Notice..... May 04, 2018 14:21

Charlie Foxtrot are off to Exeter Legionary show on 12th May and then will be taking a short break until 19th May.

Orders can be placed and will be sent up until noon on 10th May (then the stock will be loaded onto the van).

Emails and orders will be actioned on our return in a date order basis....starting 21st May. Apologies for any inconvenience this may cause.

Please scroll down.....for a sneaky peek of the "Wagon Shed" to be released on our return.

New Release: Measuring Sticks & more skirmish trays April 17, 2018 13:42

This release has 3 products: "in-line" skirmish trays for 6 man units in 1p and 25mm base size versions and a set of 4 Acrylic Measuring Sticks which may be suitable for games such as Congo. Sticks come in 4", 8" and 12" lengths.

New Release : 28mm 1:56 "New World Tavern" and Debris of War resin. April 06, 2018 11:45

Based on the Weatherburn Tavern in Williamsburg Virginia, the New World Tavern is a real table centrepiece; suitable for AWI and ACW gaming. This large kit, crammed with period features comes with card ridge tiles to cover the roof seams.

Thanks agian to Ron Carnegie from Virginia for the 360 degree pictures that made this kit possible.

The model pictured has benefitted from optional extras: 3 sheets of "Roof Tiles 2" and resin barrels from "Debris of War" all available instore.

While designing the kit, I searched for barrels to enhance the theme of the building and bought a few from Debris of War. I was so impressed with the products that I now stock selected items from their range that compliments my buildings. Barrels and barrel stacks, both large and small. I also stock their crates, also in two sizes.

It you have not seen the full range of Debris of War resin products, please visit

Redcoats by Wargames Foundry.

A tutorial on this kit appears after this release notice.

Tutorial : New World Tavern April 06, 2018 11:44

The "New World Tavern" is a large kit which has many components. Each part has been designed to be user friendly in assembly. The following steps may assist those who need more info than the A4 instructions included with the kit.

By following the instruction sheet it will get you to this stage. I worked on a flat surface and used full strength wood quality PVA.

 You will note that I have left off lots of pieces that would make the painting more difficult.

As this is a large centrepiece I really wanted to present this model at its best. I used 3 sheets of "Roof Tile 2" (available on this site) together with the capping card tiles (supplied with the kit). Leaving the bottom row as engraved roof shingles, I started one row up and used PVA to glue on the tiles. I used a cutting mat and a craft knife but being thin card, scissors would also do the job.

I have left the dormer roof off at this point as I want to do more work on them in sequence.

Take care with the two smaller roof sections to ensure you are tiling from the bottom to the top.

Add tiles to the half hipped roof sections and trim off once try. Using a craft knife with the blade extended (more on this later) hold the flat of the blade along the roof and gently cut toward the roof, pressing the tile to the MDF. This will prevent the tile lifting.

I completed the roof tiles (the two smaller roof sections are not glued in place but tiled separately) and then spray primed grey. I then lightly spray primed areas that were to be white in my final colour scheme. The grey undercoat will act as shading. At this point, I glued together the steps and then used blu tac to temporarily stick the remaining smaller pieces to some cardboard. This will prevent the smaller parts moving with the force of the spray. If you are spraying shutters and doors, spray at a low angle 45 degrees or less to retain the black engraved detail lines.

If you plan on skipping the optional roof tiles, the dormers will look like this. The roof comes with engraved tiles to paint as standard.

 I painted behind the window black and the planked walls with tester-pot emulsion, leaving the spray primed window white. Using an all purpose glue (UHU) I glued in a piece of blister packaging for glazing before gluing on the dormer roof triangle end piece. This was then followed by the larger right hand side (see note below) as shown. After the final piece is glued in, allow to dry before filling with polyfilla or greenstuff. This is to ensure that the card tiling is easier to do.

Take a piece of dormer roof and make a card template ( I used a cornflake packet). The template can then be used to take the guesswork out of cutting the roof tiles to fit the sloping roof.

When tiling the dormers, do one flat side at a time and trim to fit before tiling the triangular sloping face.

 By adding the middle tiles last it is easier to align the tiles to the existing rows on the dormer roof sides. Again, cut and glue on oversized and trim once dry.

Extend the blade and use the sloping dormer roof as a guide. Push the blade carefully towards the building to cut each row of tiles in turn.

With the roof tiles complete, I gave the kit a basecoat. I used Johnstones "English Trifle" emulsion for the walls, Games Workshop Teracotta for the brickwork and Americana "Bittersweet Chocolate" for the wood and roof shingles. (note the side roof is still not glued in pace)

After base coating, I did a pale yellow highlight to the lower edge of each "plank" using Dulux "Vanilla Sundae" tester pot. I drybrushed the roof and picked out the planks on the base by adding Vallejo Beasty Brown to the base coat before using a light pure Beasty Brown. Games Workshop "Dawnstone" grey was used to provide an extreme highlight which was toned down with GW Agrax Earthshade where I applied it too heavily. For the brickwork I added a pale muted orange Dulux Emulsion "Sumatran Melody 2" (left over from the pantile paintjob) and picked out random bricks. A number of shades were used by differing the amount of highlight paint. After the highlights werer applied, I spray varnished the brickwork to provide a seal before applying Model Mates "Brick Joint Filler".

The following pieces were painted separately and added in this order.

Shutters, basement ventilation grilles, doors. All were sprayed grey and then oversprayed white.

I then glued in the rear supporting timbers for the long narrow roof. The timber supports are a single piece that too was sprayed grey and then white. Four triangular roof trusses slot into the main building and link onto the roof support pillars. Ensure the one engraved one showing the planks is on the left. One has a deeper notch to accommoadate the window frame.  I spray primed the roof trusses grey and painted them yellow once in glued in place.The pre-tiled and pre-painted roof section was glued along the back.

I picked out the ironwork to the cellar doors and glued them in place. The doors fitting between the rear raised areas are a close fit. The paint needed sanding back using an emery board to ease the fitting.

I painted the four sets of steps and glued them in place after applying brick joint filler to the brickwork behind. I glued in place the handrails to the front steps. 

The final optional extras were added. The resin barrel stack was painted and glued to the recess in the side wall. I used an epoxy resin (a multi purpose glue would also have bonded the resin to the wall). A single barrel was added to the rear for further effect and to strengthen the Tavern theme. Coupled with the "Hare Tavern" sign barrels, the two components are visually brought together.

Lastly I glued with a multi purpose glue (UHU or similar) blister packaging to the inside on the windows to get a glazed effect.





New Releases: 28mm 1:56 Pantile Breached Walls & Skirmish "Chips" February 19, 2018 08:51

No MDF in this weeks releases: acrylic "chips" sold in single coulours for you to mix  and match. Red, blue, white green and black instore now. The "teacup" is in flourescent transparent yellow! At the Bournemouth show it was suggested the grey "chips" be produced for ACW gamers. The acrylic has been ordered and grey will be out next week....OUT NOW!!!

Two new additions to the Pantile range "Pantile Breached Walls" are also out today! Single piece resin castings to compliment the Pantile High and Pantile Low Walls.

New Release: 28mm 1:56 "Shiloh Church" January 31, 2018 15:05

After many hours of research and developing :thanks to Perry Cuskey from Tennessee for additional info., I am happy to release 28mm 1:56  "Shiloh Church". An essential terrain piece which gave its name to the American Civl War Battle of Shiloh.

The kit has a number of features such as: heavy foundation timbers, exposed roof trusses, internal fireplace, open steps and cardboard roof shingles (included in the kit).



Guest Tutorial: Pantile Church & Granary by Matt Smith December 29, 2017 22:41

Matt has followed my tutorial (just scroll down to find): yet slightly altered the mix by using textured exterior paint.  Superb results, please follow the link.





Guest Tutorial : Richard Clarke works on the New World Collection. December 29, 2017 22:21

Richard Clarke from TooFatLardies has recently put together a blog article on painting kits from the Charlie Foxtrot Models "New World" range. Richard kindly gave permission for me to copy his musings here. Thanks Richard.

A different take from my approach of spraying grey primer, spraying white primer and picking out boards with Foundry "Austrian White" 3 shade paint.  

Way Down South in the Land of Cotton…

Plantations are odd things and certainly not very trendy in todays PC world, however, for a wargamer who enjoys the AWI and the ACW there can be no doubt that having a few relevant buildings to represent the agricultural heart of the old South is a boon.  I have long been eyeing the superb buildings from Charlie Foxtrot which allow the gamer to create a whole plantation, but it was the release of their superb new pantile walls which saw me chuck a few in my basket on a ‘While I’m here…” basis.

Before I go any further, I should say that this is not a review of the Charlie Foxtrot products, this is a very particular and peculiar build project which I have undertaken to get the result and finished look that I want, so if you need a review of the basic model then you’ll need to look elsewhere.  If you fancy some ideas about what you can do with MDF models then maybe there is something here for you.

The first step was to build the models.  Nothing to see here, I just stuck them together with PVA glue.  After I’d built them and roofed them they looked like this.

I should point out here that the plantation house does not come with tiles, it used etched MDF, something I always find a little disappointing, especially as it allows some of the lugs in the roof to show.  As a result, I tiles the building with some of the laser cut roof tiles from Warbases.  I believe Charlie Foxtrot do their own, but I bought an industrial quantity of the Warbases ones a couple of years ago and have more roof tiles than my local builders merchants, so I used them.  I wanted a more formal European style of tile rather than the wood shingle one sees on so many US models, so I went with the one you can see.  The other buildings are, a covered well (front left) a dairy (front right) and two ‘workers houses’, a polite euphemism for slave house.  All of these came with roof tiles which I have added as per the instructions.  Any small gaps have been filled with Polyfilla and sanded down.

Okay, so step 1 was to under coat the models.  I used grey for the big house, the dairy and well and black for the slave houses and roofs.  With that done, I began painting the buildings which would end up white. For this, I wanted a thin covering of white as I wanted to suggest a feather-edged look to the boards by painting the lower half of each a lighter colour than the top section.  In the end, I went with a tube of acrylic which I have never really used as it is too wishy-washy and, frankly, this was a way to get rid of it. You can see how horrible the coverage was in the image below.

With that dry, I began to paint the lower halves of the boards in a brighter, more solid white, but watering this down slightly as I wanted to use a highlight later.  It was now that I realised that I am bloody awful at painting straight lines, but I tried my best.

Sadly, it wasn’t much of a job, but while that was drying I painted up all of the doors and shutters separately.  Doing this now, rather than when they were attached, allowed a much cleaner line, in contrast to my planking!

I then persevered with the other white buildings until all of the planking was done and then added the window shutters and doors.  

Not exactly a work of art, but the shutters do cover up some of the worst wobbly bits.  Anyway, now I looked at the lower windows for the basement. These were meant to go below the upper brickwork, but I had actually done some damage to the lugs when putting the building together.

Some larger MDF buildings do, I find, need some elbow grease and, for someone with little patience, I get a bit bored with being carful so had hammered the bit together with a small upholstery hammer I found in my father’s old tool kit.  It had got the bits to fit, but a few edges had suffered.  I decided to attach the window grills slightly higher up to cover these lugs.  Like so…

With this done, I decided that rather than paint the brickwork, I would use some brickwork wallpaper that I had purchased for my Stalingrad project.   I decided to practice on the smaller buildings first, so added some PVA to them.    

With that done, I added the brickwork paper which I had cut to fit.  The brickeffect paper is great as you just use the lines on the brickwork to get a nice clean cut and straight line.  

As can be seen, I had a bit of an overhang, but this was trimmed off later.  Pleased with them, I began working my way round the mansion and doing the slave house chimneys.  It’s an idea to do a few at a time as it is CRITICAL that you take your time with this, doing one section at a time before moving on. Wallpaper expands horribly when damp, so use plenty of glue and make sure you are around to give it a squeeze every few minutes to keep it in the right place.

As can be seen in the above shot, taking it slowly means allowing the first face to dry before then adding more glue and wrapping the paper around the chimney.  Slow as this may seem, it does get good results whereas any attempt to speed it up is almost guaranteed to bugger things up.   More haste, less speed.

One important point is to remember to paint the top of the chimney in a brick red colour early in the process.  Some of this will be on show so giving it the right base colour will be a great help.

On this model, I cut out single rows of bricks to add around the top chimney detail. When these were in place, I used a watered down brick read (actually Vallejo red leather) to touch the paper edges to colour any white paper edges.

With this done, I added white to the brick red and then painted detail onto the top of the chimney to suggest bricks.

The key thing to remember here is that you are not painting a perfect scale representation of a house.  This is much more like painting scenery for a theatrical production; you just do enough to fool the eye.

With these added bits done, I had just done enough to complete my plantation.  I went round with the final touch up of pure white to add a few edges.  Here’s a few snaps of the finished products.

I am really pleased with these models as I think they are pretty unique now I have added my few bits to the excellent basic models. What I like to do is play to the strengths of MDF, such as the fact that it represents wood very well, but where it is less successful I try to add other products.

You can find the Charlie Foxtrot models here:  Charlie Foxtrot