Holiday Notice December 14, 2020 10:49
I will be taking time off over the Christmas period to get some R & R. My time off will be followed by a workshop tidy, reordering of packaging, stock take and machine servicing.
I have taken the decision to TEMPORARILY DISABLE the "add to cart" button to prevent any orders being taken. As I will not be away from home, I will be constantly looking at the website and feel compelled to get orders cut and dispatched: In effect, I will not get a break.
From 5pm UK time on Friday 18th December, I will disable the "add to cart" button. I will work on orders over that weekend and post on Monday 21st and so UK customers should get delivery before Christmas. Overseas customers posting in time for Christmas will have long passed this date.
The online store will reopen for orders on Tuesday 5th January.
News: New Releases coming soon. November 15, 2020 09:54
I have been busy working on the Spanish Windmill and behind the scenes also working on a new collection titled: "Ruins of the Reich". I had been planning this for some time as an alternative to Stalingrad ruins yet when approached by WS&S I brought the project forward.
It was a close run thing getting the advert in the same issue as the article where the models are featured and sadly two key words were missed off "coming soon".
The Spanish Windmill will be on general release after all Kickstarter backers have been fulfilled. I want to do more work on the "Ruins of the Reich" so there will be a longer lead in time for them. I plan to do something different with this collection and want to test a few things out before release. Please watch this space or Facebook for updates.
Spanish Windmill Tutorial November 11, 2020 17:45
To accompany the instructions what follows is a photo diary and comments for the Spanish Windmill construction.
Assemble the door and glue to the base (pictured is the base from Kit A) once the door is sitting in it's position glue the doorstep and slide in: like posting a letter. Check it is sitting vertically and then glue in the two reinforcing and locating 3mm triangles. Set aside to dry.
Glue on the narrower 3mm think ring around the top lip of the tube then glue on the wider 3mm thick ring to cover this and the tube top edge. DO NOT glue the card to the base yet.
Later, after you have textured the walls, you will need to place the card tube over the triangles and slide the structure to recess the door. The door should protrude approximately 1mm. This lip is to ensure a sharp and robust edge to plaster up to. This is a little out of sequence but easier to see the method without the plaster render in place. If the door recess is a little tight, enlarge with a file or nail emery board.
Cut the window frames from the card strips and set aside. Using tape, join the two strips to make one long length. After use this spacing strip can be recycled.
Align one window centrally above the door then tape in place. Next, glue each window to the card tube and remove the spacing strip.
Cut the large single window from the frame and tape the frame above the door.
Glue on the window then remove and recycle the card frame.
Remove two of the arms from the frame and glue into the recessed washer. Ensure they are lying flat to dry. Once dry, glue on the sails and repeat for the second pair. Although the pieces are durable, a spare set of "arms" are included in case of mishap. Use the diameter 4mm tube as a guide and glue 3mm washers to build up an MDF tube, please see the instructions as the image there is clearer than a photograph.
Following the "Pantile Tutorial" I marked with a pencil the position of my flour sacks (KitA only). I used an artists palette knife to coat the card tube with ready-mixed plaster. A thin coat was applied and fine sand glued onto bare patches. Successive thin layers were added to thicken the walls enough to cover the cardboard windows and protruding door frame. Avoid applying sand / grit where the flour sacks will fit.
At this stage, while the plaster is wet, take care to scrape out any filler from the window recesses. A little time spent now will save a lot later.
Using a sculpting tool, I scratched into some of the smoother plaster areas a rough stone pattern. Describe the bricks with the point of the tool and repeatedly go over scratching away filler between bricks. This is quite time consuming so just a few suggestions of stone were done.
When applying filler, it is best not to attempt total coverage all at once. I held onto the top rings and textured the lower part of the building. Once dry, I held the lower part to texture the top. As layers are applied, they can be sanded back if any lumps stick out too far. Apply a slight skim over the sand to bed it in.
Where I planned to place the flour sacks, I only skimmed the area with filler and sanded any high spots off before moving onto the next stage.
Following the steps at the start of this tutorial, I glued the card tube lower edge and the recess for the doorway. Next, I placed the tube over the triangles and slid the building along the base to align with the door. I then applied more glue around the seams both inside and out. When the glue is dry, apply filler around the base edge to fill any small cracks and fill any gaps around the doorway.
Cut bamboo into approx 3 x 25mm lengths and form a tepee structure using the 3 pre-drilled holes in the base as a guide. Cut and glue on 3 x bottom braces approx 23mm long.
Cut the long arm (initially over-length to 195mm) offer up to the aperture on the roof. Align the trajectory of the roof slope and slide the stay in place. Mark off the long bamboo arm then cut to size. Repeat the positioning and superglue to the tepee NOT THE ROOF.
Use the "Pantile Tutorial" to guide you with painting if needed. For my model I brought the colour up lighter than my other Pantile models, to an off white for the last highlight. I painted the millstones and flour sacks before gluing them on.
Once the painting was complete, I glued the flour sacks onto the base and wall and used a little filler to bring up the ground level and blend the sacks in. I glued the flat lying millstone at this stage.
After applying my usual basing method of sand / grit and allowing to dry, I painted the base and then glued on the millstone leaning against the wall followed by sticking on tufts.
In this example Tony from Debris of War has mounted the base onto a hill and applied a lot more scenic effects to make a really outstanding table centre piece.
New Release: 28mm 1:56 "Millstones" and "Flour Sacks" October 28, 2020 07:44
For the "Spanish Windmill" Kickstarter project I made curved backed flour sacks to align with the walls and millstones as scatter pieces.
Tony from Debris of War skillfully straightened the back of the sacks for general use. Both these and the millstones are now available to buy separately.
New Release: Kickstarter 28mm 1/56 "Spanish Windmill" October 12, 2020 20:29
The newest addition to the "Pantile Collection" does not have Pantiles! Must have been a weight issue what with millstones in the roof so most commonly, they were timber clad.
Although titled "Spanish Windmill" examples have been found in France, Italy and even Barbados making this model suitable for Peninsular War, WWII and pirate tables.
Two versions have been made, one with resin flour sacks and millstones and another without.
The resin roof is a single piece casting cast from my master by Tony of Debris of War. https://www.debrisofwar.com
I am so pleased the wood grain effect came out sharp and crisp, it made painting the large area quick and easy.
Please follow the link: here to the tutorial as this is a really simple build with a few design features that make it simple to achieve good results.
French Village by Burkhard Schulze October 8, 2020 07:18
Burkhard Schulze from Germany has completed his French village. I have been watching elements of this come together over the last few years. What a great feeling to have a project completed to this standard. Burkhard, I will miss chatting to you at Crisis this year.
please follow the link to Burkhard's blog for some quality eye-candy.here.
Holiday Notice August 1, 2020 23:36
Charlie Foxtrot Models will be away and "off grid" from 7th - 17th August. Orders and emails will be actioned in date order on our return. Please accept my apologies for the disruption to the service.
Last posting will be on Thursday 6th. Please be advised: if you are ordering a large amount of movement trays (which are cut to order) on Thursday 6th, they may not get cut until 17th.
I will be spending time away from the laser cutters and computer. While I will not physically be away from home the whole time, I need to recharge batteries and tidy the workshop after the manic few months. I really need some down time to get some painting in for my own collections.
There are also a few buildings I want to work on and need time to focus.
New Releases: Oathmark Tokens and Spell Templates. (Unofficial) July 24, 2020 08:27
I have immersed myself in the "Oathmark: Battles of the Lost Age" written by Joseph A McCullough published by Osprey Games for some time. Now lock down has eased a little; I have had chance to give the rules a try.
With great production and "plain English" the focus is on battlefield decisions.
After 3 games I am already hooked. The mechanics are so simple and intuitive. There are many decisions to make each turn yet game play is very quick and flows really well. I can see myself sticking with Oathmark for years to come.
To support the game I am releasing unofficial sets of tokens and templates. A "Core Set" with enough tokens for a large game includes "general" spells that any spell caster can select and "race specific" spells for the main rule book armies: Dwarf, Elf, Human and Goblin & Orc.
The tokens are my take on the quantities I believe are required for a large battle.
Expect to see more of my Dark Elf army on Facebook and Twitter as it receives long awaited paint. I am also planning a strongly themed human army too. More on that later.
New Release: "Foot Cavalry Movement Trays" July 8, 2020 11:01
I have been "head down" busy getting orders out and "treading water" for a few months now. While I am glad to report I have kept up to date with fulfilling orders and getting them in the post, I have a backlog of commissions that have to take a back seat.
In the evenings I have been developing a new experimental kit which is an exciting new direction. More details here IF my idea works. I am in a position were I have more ideas than time to realise them.
A few "quick fix" adjustments to the 8 Horse Movement tray "Foot Cavalry Movement Trays" are now released in 25mm, 1p and 2p versions. They may be suitable for Infamy Infamy.
Shipping to USA June 23, 2020 09:11
I have held back longer than stated on increasing postal charges (which came into effect in March) as on 1st July the USA will be reclassified as "World Zone 3" and will apply a postal increase due to US fees going up.
The price on the website will change on FRIDAY 26th JUNE as a few days cutting time has to be allowed for bases, trays and any out of stock kits.
New Releases: "Movement tray for 20mm bases" (Oathmark size) May 8, 2020 07:05
Three new movement trays have been released to add to the existing Oathmark sized trays. Trays now include 5, 10, 15 and 20 man together with a 3 monster version. The standard infantry trays are to convert minis based on 20mm to take a 5 wide frontage of 25mm bases models i.e.125mm
The 3 x Monster tray is designed to convert minis based on 40mm squares to a 3 model frontage of minis based on 50mm squares i.e. 150mm
New releases: 25mm movement trays "10 Man Loose Order" & "6 Horse" May 1, 2020 20:20
Apologies for drip feeding new releases the website is very busy and time to upload is being taken cutting, packing and wrapping to meet orders.
This weeks sees the release of 2 "10 Man Loose Order" trays for the much anticipated forthcoming "Infamy Infamy" by Too Fat Lardies, together with a 6 Horse tray for horses based on 50mm x 25mm pill shapes.
Further trays for Oathmark have been drawn and await uploading to the website: 5 Man and 15 Man (to convert minis on 20mm to 5 x 25mm frontage and a 3 x Monster tray (to convert minis on 40mm bases to 3 x 50mm frontage.
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