News
New Releases "Brains & Hearts" November 13, 2016 18:17
Designed at a customer request,(I believe for use with the boardgame "Elder Sign") the "Brains & Hearts" are both available instore.
The hearts can be used for tracking life in roleplay games, board game or zombie skirmish games.
The brains can be used for roleplay, boardgames or skirmishes representing: fortitude, spells, craft etc.
Both sets are cut in 3mm acrylic and are approximately 20mm x 20mm.
New Release: 28mm 1:56 "Pantile House 2" November 11, 2016 14:04
The second release in the collection. "Pantile House 2" is a higher status dwelling with tiled balcony, optional security grilles to downstairs windows and full length window with balconette. MDF with resin kit now available instore.
New Release: 28mm 1:56 "Pantile House 1" November 11, 2016 11:06
Suitable for Napoleonic Peninsular War, Spanish Civil War, Italian WW2, Wild West Mexican or even pirates of the Carribean settings. This kit is the first in a new range of MDF and resin hybrid kits from Charlie Foxtrot Models...for a step by step tutorial on how I achieved this effect..please see the previous post.
Tutorial: Prepping & Painting the Pantile Kits. November 11, 2016 11:05
For this tutorial, I would like to walk you through step by step on how I achieved the "rough cast" weathered look of the "Pantile House 1". This model is the first in a range of themed kits. Having resin components and very textured walls: I took a different approach from my Eastern Front or Normandy buildings.
From the following picture you can see the resin roof & chimney stack. Further resin components are to the side and rear of the kit. An MDF capping stone and a plastic component completes the chimney assembly.
First, I glued the walls to the floors and, once dry, glued in the thickening 3mm inner walls to give real depth to the structure. I then glued on the blacony, door arch, and window sills. I left off the windows and doors to make texturing and painting easier. For this image, the doors and windows are held in place with clear tape.
Before I started texturing the walls, I took a craft knife and distressed the sills and the door surround. For the door surround, I reduced the thickness on a few selected "stones".
The resin roof needed slight filing to sit comfortably on the 1st floor. If sanding or filing resin or MDF, work in a well ventilated area or outdoors and avoid breathing in any dust.
Using a spatula, or thumb in my case; apply filler (I used quick drying polyfilla readymix) thinly in a random way so you do not have a pattern. I have now completed 4 buildings and have used 2/3 of a 99p tube of quick dry filler.
Do not aim for total coverage; leave some lower areas of bare wood showing through.
Where you left some bare exposed wood, coat with PVA and cover with fine sand. For the image above, I painted the kit and the sand looked too patchy. I went back with the polyfilla and blended over some of the sand to merge with the previous plolyfilla layer. The kit did not need painting at that point, I did it so you could see where I applied the second coat of filler.
I used an acrylic made by "Americana" called Honey Brown in the recesses of the filler and where I thought a bit of shade was needed.
Next I mixed Honey Brown with Crafter's acrylic Tan 50-50 mix and drybrushed with a large brush. I then used pure Tan followed by a light drybrush dusting of Americana acrylic Bleached Sand. To bring out the fine lines in the door surround and give a little shading under the balocny and below the windows a wash with Games Workshop Agrax Earthsade was applied.
The roof and chimney pot were base coated with a Dulux mixed testerpot emulsion "Sumatran Melody 2" and highlighted with a light drybrush of "Sumatran Melody 3". A final dusting with Bleached sand and a light wash of Agrax Earthshade finished the job.
The windows and doors were spray primed then hand painted with a mid brown. I used the mid-brown with a little grey to highlight followed by a wash of Agrax Earthshade to finish.
The windows were glued to clear "blister packaging" sheet using Unibond solvent free glue. Once dry, I used scissors to cut the window frames off the sheet and trim to fit. I then glued the frames in place using PVA. The curtain is a piece of paper that I painted in rough stripes using Wargames Foundry 3 shade Austrian White.
Having the majority of the model painted using drybrush and wash method, this kit was very quick to paint. With the windows and doors separate also speeded up getting the model "table ready".
News: Delivery delays 2nd -11th November October 25, 2016 14:23
Charlie Foxtrot will be attending "Crisis" in Antwerp this November.
We will be staying over and taking a holiday while in Belgium so orders will not be fulfilled during 2nd to 11th November.
Machines are running and orders fulfilled right up until close of business on 1st.
Orders can still be placed and will be worked through in date order on our return.
Please accept my apologies for this disruption in service.
EMails will be actioned, again in date order, on our return.
Colin
Charlie Foxtrot Models
2 New Releases: Bolt Action 2 "Tokens & Template" & "Muzzle Flash" October 18, 2016 20:37
New from Charlie Foxtrot Models is a totally "unofficial" template and token set. These are my take on the BA2 gaming aids. Being clear they are discreet in use and do not visually clutter the gaming table.
The 4" template and 1" tokens are cut in 3mm acrylic and comprise of the following:
9 x hidden (no eye),2 x immobilised (no tank moving),2 x turret jammed (no rotate),2 x air / artillery strike (gun sights),5 x snap to it (the square hole is cut to fit a 16mm order dice),2 x indirect fire (the square hole is cut to fit a standard 12mm D6)
I have used pictograms to portray the event and make them useable in any language.
1 x 4" HE template. The template has: double 1", single 2", 3" & 4" and D6 scatter markers. The double 1" is for autocannon fire. All the 1" tokens can also be used as 1" HE too.
Muzzle flash tokens are for the night fighting scenario and are cut from yellow light emitting acrylic.
New Release: "Bullet Tokens" October 4, 2016 13:46
I have just released two sets of 50 laser cut 2mm MDF Bullet tokens.
The tokens either "Rifle Bullet" or "Pistol Bullet" are now available in store.
Designed for playing skirmish games with zombies, old west, Batman, role playing or replacing tokens from a board game.
The painted Black Scorpion models are for scale purposes only.
New Release: Storage Tray (104 Man) September 29, 2016 10:48
Due to a number of requests, I have released the Storage Tray for models based on 1p coins. I believe a lot of people base their Perry & Wargames Foundry models on 1p pieces (being slighlty smaller than Front Rank or Warlord Games models).
New Release: Storage Tray ( 77 Man ) September 27, 2016 17:06
Those of you who follow my Facebook posts would be aware of my current passion for Sharp Practice 2 and continued love of Bolt Action. Both skirmish systems have models on circular bases. For ease of availability and the added stability of weight, I have been using (like many others) 2p coins for bases. The majority of 2p pieces struck since 1992 are magnetic.
The "Storage Tray" was designed for my own personal use. To assist with storage and transporting my collections. The 4 litre "Really Useful Boxes" are strong, they stack and the contents can be seen. The rare earth magnets I bought very cheaply on E Bay. When friends saw how effective it was and requested that I cut copies for them, I thought: I should put this "in store".
Guest Tutorial: "Thatched Roof" by Michael Lundstedt September 26, 2016 11:16
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Introduction by Colin I have seen a number of modellers use "teddy bear fur" for thatching however results I have seen have been "mixed". The majority look like teddy bear fur even after combing out with PVA and painting. I have not tried that method but have been informed it is slow and very messy. I saw a picture posted by Micheal Lundstedt from Umea, Sweden on Facebook. The picture was of a thatched Charlie Foxtrot Model. I had to make contact and ask him how he achieved the excellent result. The following tutorial has been put together by Micheal, showing how easy it is to get a superb outcome...once you know how! Guest Tutorial: Creating a thatched roof for your 28mm by Micheal Lundstedt. When a received my Charlie Foxtrot Eastern Front buildings I decided that I wanted to add some extra flavour to them, namely thatched roofs. This tutorial will show you how I made these. |
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Material In order to do this, you will need the following: A towel. I got a pack of small towels from the local supermarket for 2,5€. (£2.20)This pack will last forever. You want a towel with some structure as this will create the illusion of thatch. Glue I use standard wood glue (PVA). I believe I just about 1/3 of a bottle. Paint I just black spray primer and then a mix of citadel and Vallejo paints. This is all down to personal taste, however the primer is pretty important unless you really have some spare time to kill. |
Making the roof
The first step is to cut the towel in strips, approximately 2cm wide. When you do this, you have to be careful about which way the small loops want to fall. Using a finger it’s easy to notice which way is easier. These loops should be pointing downwards (-ish) when you glue them to your roof.
Once you’ve cut a bunch of strips you can start applying glue to the roof. I use a bit of water to make the glue flow easier. Don’t forget to apply glue to the sides of the roof as well. Start from the bottom. You don’t have to worry unduly about the length of the strips at this point, but do make sure you press them down the edges of the roof as well.
When the first strip is in place it’s time for the second. Add more glue, and this time add some glue on top of the first strip as well. If you don’t water down the glue at this point it’s really difficult. You don’t have to be too careful though, as we will cover the entire roof in glue later on. Place the second strip in such way that it overlaps the first one by about 5mm.
Now, just keep on working your way up to the top of the roof. Once there, start from the bottom on the other side and repeat the procedure. Finally, add one strip that covers the top ridge of the roof and a little bit on both sides.
When this is finished, cut off the excess towel on the sides and then paint the entire roof with watered down glue. I make sure to paint the glue from the top downwards to make sure the loops are pointing in the right direction. After this is I leave the roof to dry completely.
Painting
Start by spray painting the entire building black. Once this is dry I used a chocolate brown paint to cover most of the black painting. I do this in a drybrushing way, without removing the excess paint from the brush. It will leave certain areas black, which is perfectly fine. Then I drybrush brighter and brighter tones, ending up with a light grey. This could of course be done in a myriad of ways, creating all sorts of end results. I like the darker, more worn look which I think fits the weathered look of the building.
Finished result:
Thanks Michael for an informative and well illustrated tutorial. This is certainly something I will try for myself. I am convinced that this is a better method than the teddy bear fur....that is unless other modellers want to mail in pics to change my mind.
Colin
New Release: 28mm 1:56 "The Red Lion" Pub August 25, 2016 14:36
This is a kit I have been planning for some time. "The Red Lion" Public House is suited to VBCW, in Her Majestey's name, Aggro, zombie games (remember "Sean of the Dead"?) or alternative history with Dad's Army valiantly fighting off German Fallschirmjager.
This large, substantial kit, can be made up with large ground floor windows or smaller panes. 3 Pubs signs are supplied, two flat, flush lions and one hanging sign.
Sticky carpet & stained ceilings are NOT included.
This kit is now on sale in store.
